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2006 FLAMENCO FASHION. SPECIAL FEATURE
+ PHOTO GALLERY
Guide to new trends
in flamenco dresses
Susana Muñoz Bolaños. Seville,
February 5th, 2006
If there is something that has characterized the
models presented at Simof 2006, it is the passion all their
creators put into them when molding their creations, laying
their stakes on diversity, innovation and research as regards
to fabrics, cuts, shapes and colors. With a certain regard
to the flavor of the copla from the '40s and '50s and the
pop culture and fair of the '70s, recovering the sensuality
and the passion of the short half-leg-length dresses or open
to one side, on the catwalk the proposals were endless. The
common denominator: exhaustively exploit the sensual female
figure and allow spectacular play when dancing with the most
suitable designs.
| Cuts.
As far as the cuts of the dresses, there were fundamentally
two wagers. On the one hand, skirts accompanied by sensual
sleeveless bodices and diverse blouses, with suspenders,
short sleeves, jean style, with embroidered lycra or
with stunning necklines, in crochet, crepe or silk.
On the other hand, full-cut dresses, not cut at the
waist, sheer, light and very tailored, with long sleeves,
to the elbow, short, with darts and with suspenders,
with V-necks in front and back, leaving the back exposed,
with drapings that wrap it and with frills going from
the hip halfway down the leg, which diminish in the
front and grow once more at the back, which appear and
disappear. As a note to point out, the dresses of gypsy
inspiration and the canastero (basket maker)
dresses. |
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Frills.
As far as the frills, there are all sorts of them, fundamentally
layered ones, but also on the straight, tiny, bringing
back the trends from the late '80s, medium and very
long, which appear and disappear amidst the rest, which
go up and down, crossing the dresses from one side to
the other and in all possible directions, even triples.
Brought back are the ‘livened up’ frills
in a host of colors, even in one same frill, also embroidered
straps, cotton, bobbin and chantilly lace, berry-shaped
tassels, bodkins, dyed picots, crochet, perforations
and applications of leather and small crystals. |
Fabrics. As far as fabrics,
the use of hitherto unthinkable cloths to design flamenco
dresses was an important part of Simof 2006, where
moreover 79 firms related to the flamenco world were
on exhibit, among them, Castañuelas
Filigrana. Mainly standing out was the superposition
and combination of fabrics and patterns of a very
diverse nature, besides embroideries, serigraphies,
hand-made painting and ribbons which are superimposed
on the bodies of natural fabrics.
Thus, together with traditional fabrics like poplin
or cotton satin and other nobler ones, such as crepe,
tulle, natural silk, shantung, georgettes and other
fabrics, the use was introduced of checked gingham,
denim, silver and gold brocades, perforated piqué,
cotton and jean fabrics, especially in the collections
by Sevillian Vicky Martín Berrocal
and gypsy creator Juana Martín,
the surprise of the latest Pasarela Cibeles (Fashion
Show). Likewise, others of a more handcrafted nature
stand out, such as the washed and worn-out fabrics,
the dyed old picots and the bet on the mixture of
textures like brown linen and natural silk, crochet,
richelieu and cambric.
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Colors.
The palette of colors is likewise varied, virtually
serving all of them up on a platter. Together with the
more traditional and always elegant red, white and black,
standing out are pastel tones, citrics, earth tones
and the range of fuchsias, turquoises, oranges, greens
and mauves, to name a few. As far as the patterns, the
absolute dominance of polka dots in all shapes and sizes,
patterns with smaller, discreet flowers, cashmeres in
all their varieties and even sailor's stripes and pop
patterns. |
Accessories. The accessories
play a basic role with regards to flamenco fashion.
Especially standing out are sashes of diverse fabrics
and the boleros in all their forms – including
jean - to accompany the frilly dress, like those of
creator Loli Vera, or those more
fickle and elegant ones in polka-dot crepe like the
ones presented by Lina. Also playing
an important role are mantillas and shawls, in all
lengths and colors, embroidered and hand-painted,
in all fabrics, the craftsmanship especially standing
out of those by Rocío Casado for
Ángeles Verano's collection and those by Pitusa
Gasul, without forgetting the hand-made shawls
by Ángeles Espinar, sensual
and flirtatious pieces of work.
As far as the rest of the accesories,
left behind were the ball-shaped ones which contributed
nothing to the flamenco dress. Necklaces, earrings,
bracelets, back combs large and small, rings and even
brooches are an essential part today to perfectly
complete the flamenco outfit. Standing out are those
by Dublos and Luchi Cabrera which provide all the
dresses with the good taste the use of new materials
allows them. Full of baroque style and fantasy, there
are plenty of very long necklaces made in all colors,
plain and combined, accessories made of noble and
classic materials, such as natural coral, mother-of-pearl
or turquoise, but also those of a goldsmith's laboriousness,
with art deco airs, openwork and vegetable motifs
or with colored crystals and precious stones. Also
in metalized patina materials, in silver and gold,
or with gypsy coins.
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Flowers
and hairstyles As far as flowers and hairstyles,
on the catwalk we could see hair let down with flowers
on one side, always large and preferably roses, now
then of all colors, plain or combined, but above all
hair pinned back in diverse styles, more suitable for
a fashion show than the April Fair and on many occasions
with the flower on top of the head. As an elegant touch,
flowers at the height of the left shoulder over the
breast, as a brooch. |
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