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2006 FLAMENCO FASHION. SPECIAL FEATURE + PHOTO GALLERY

Guide to new trends in flamenco dresses

Susana Muñoz Bolaños. Seville, February 5th, 2006

If there is something that has characterized the models presented at Simof 2006, it is the passion all their creators put into them when molding their creations, laying their stakes on diversity, innovation and research as regards to fabrics, cuts, shapes and colors. With a certain regard to the flavor of the copla from the '40s and '50s and the pop culture and fair of the '70s, recovering the sensuality and the passion of the short half-leg-length dresses or open to one side, on the catwalk the proposals were endless. The common denominator: exhaustively exploit the sensual female figure and allow spectacular play when dancing with the most suitable designs.

Cuts. As far as the cuts of the dresses, there were fundamentally two wagers. On the one hand, skirts accompanied by sensual sleeveless bodices and diverse blouses, with suspenders, short sleeves, jean style, with embroidered lycra or with stunning necklines, in crochet, crepe or silk. On the other hand, full-cut dresses, not cut at the waist, sheer, light and very tailored, with long sleeves, to the elbow, short, with darts and with suspenders, with V-necks in front and back, leaving the back exposed, with drapings that wrap it and with frills going from the hip halfway down the leg, which diminish in the front and grow once more at the back, which appear and disappear. As a note to point out, the dresses of gypsy inspiration and the canastero (basket maker) dresses.

Frills. As far as the frills, there are all sorts of them, fundamentally layered ones, but also on the straight, tiny, bringing back the trends from the late '80s, medium and very long, which appear and disappear amidst the rest, which go up and down, crossing the dresses from one side to the other and in all possible directions, even triples. Brought back are the ‘livened up’ frills in a host of colors, even in one same frill, also embroidered straps, cotton, bobbin and chantilly lace, berry-shaped tassels, bodkins, dyed picots, crochet, perforations and applications of leather and small crystals.

Fabrics. As far as fabrics, the use of hitherto unthinkable cloths to design flamenco dresses was an important part of Simof 2006, where moreover 79 firms related to the flamenco world were on exhibit, among them, Castañuelas Filigrana. Mainly standing out was the superposition and combination of fabrics and patterns of a very diverse nature, besides embroideries, serigraphies, hand-made painting and ribbons which are superimposed on the bodies of natural fabrics.

Thus, together with traditional fabrics like poplin or cotton satin and other nobler ones, such as crepe, tulle, natural silk, shantung, georgettes and other fabrics, the use was introduced of checked gingham, denim, silver and gold brocades, perforated piqué, cotton and jean fabrics, especially in the collections by Sevillian Vicky Martín Berrocal and gypsy creator Juana Martín, the surprise of the latest Pasarela Cibeles (Fashion Show). Likewise, others of a more handcrafted nature stand out, such as the washed and worn-out fabrics, the dyed old picots and the bet on the mixture of textures like brown linen and natural silk, crochet, richelieu and cambric.


Colors. The palette of colors is likewise varied, virtually serving all of them up on a platter. Together with the more traditional and always elegant red, white and black, standing out are pastel tones, citrics, earth tones and the range of fuchsias, turquoises, oranges, greens and mauves, to name a few. As far as the patterns, the absolute dominance of polka dots in all shapes and sizes, patterns with smaller, discreet flowers, cashmeres in all their varieties and even sailor's stripes and pop patterns.

Accessories. The accessories play a basic role with regards to flamenco fashion. Especially standing out are sashes of diverse fabrics and the boleros in all their forms – including jean - to accompany the frilly dress, like those of creator Loli Vera, or those more fickle and elegant ones in polka-dot crepe like the ones presented by Lina. Also playing an important role are mantillas and shawls, in all lengths and colors, embroidered and hand-painted, in all fabrics, the craftsmanship especially standing out of those by Rocío Casado for Ángeles Verano's collection and those by Pitusa Gasul, without forgetting the hand-made shawls by Ángeles Espinar, sensual and flirtatious pieces of work.

As far as the rest of the accesories, left behind were the ball-shaped ones which contributed nothing to the flamenco dress. Necklaces, earrings, bracelets, back combs large and small, rings and even brooches are an essential part today to perfectly complete the flamenco outfit. Standing out are those by Dublos and Luchi Cabrera which provide all the dresses with the good taste the use of new materials allows them. Full of baroque style and fantasy, there are plenty of very long necklaces made in all colors, plain and combined, accessories made of noble and classic materials, such as natural coral, mother-of-pearl or turquoise, but also those of a goldsmith's laboriousness, with art deco airs, openwork and vegetable motifs or with colored crystals and precious stones. Also in metalized patina materials, in silver and gold, or with gypsy coins.


Flowers and hairstyles As far as flowers and hairstyles, on the catwalk we could see hair let down with flowers on one side, always large and preferably roses, now then of all colors, plain or combined, but above all hair pinned back in diverse styles, more suitable for a fashion show than the April Fair and on many occasions with the flower on top of the head. As an elegant touch, flowers at the height of the left shoulder over the breast, as a brooch.

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